Sculpt like a Pro – The Reverse Contour

As we discussed concealers earlier this week, I will like to talk about how they are used for the technique called the “Reverse Contour”. Concealers are used to conceal dark spots but they are also used to redefine specific facial features. The contouring of the face entails highlighting and creation of depth in certain parts of the face.

First of all, we need to realize that most times these trends are started by Caucasians and created for their skin tone. It is my personal opinion/ preference that I do not see the point using a darker foundation, concealer or powder to create depth on the dark skin tone. Although, I will point out that this ideology will not apply in every circumstance because of various factors. As an artist, I will still create depth on certain dark individuals depending on the outcome I am trying to achieve.

I have created a chart to show how to do a reverse contour and save yourself from buying unnecessary products and overcome the problem of having harsh lines which are created from improper blending.

Steps:

Step 1 – After your skin care prep, apply a light coat of foundation to your skin and set it with a loose powder. If you missed the skin care article, read it HERE.

Step 2 – Apply concealer to the under eye, bridge of your nose, forehead, Cupid’s bow (the “V” curve on the upper lip), chin, and under cheek area.

Stage 3 – At this stage, use a flat pointed brush to press the concealer into the skin. Tip: You can use a beauty blender or a flat brush.

Key Notes: I put concealer on the side of my nose, hence creates the illusion that my nose is smaller. Also, once I highlight my face, the dark parts of my face became more prominent. Therefore, you really don’t need that dark foundation or concealer. Catch my drift?

Step 4: Apply your setting powder or translucent powder over the highlighted area.

Step 5: Use a face brush with some loose foundation powder to go over the dark areas and then use a clean fluffy brush to dust around your face. Fade out any harsh line.

Step 6: Now wear your lipstick, eyeshadow, blush, eyeliner, lashes (if you want), and use an illuminating bronzer on cheek bones, nose bridge, Cupid’s bow, and forehead.

Final looks and products used:

If you observe, the aim of highlighting was to brighten under my eyes, chin and forehead, and slim my nose, which I achieved by just highlighting my face with a concealer and using an illuminating bronzer on highlighted areas for added effect.

In simple terms, reverse contour is just highlighting the high points of your face with a concealer and an illuminating bronzer and also your contour is meant to be seen only when the light hits your face. As seen in the last two pictures.
Disclaimer: No filter has been used on any of these images.

Products used:

Face :
• Mary Kay Foundation (Bronze 7)
• Concealer – Mary Kay Bronze 1
• Setting powder – Sacha Buttercup Powder
• Mary Kay Loose Powder – Bronze 5
• Mac Prep and Prime Translucent Powder
• Mary Kay Setting Spray
Eyes:
• Smashbox Eyeshadow in “Nude”
• Mary Kay gel eye liner ( jet black)
• Lashes- Ardell Demi-wispies
• Mary Kay Ultimate Mascara
Cheeks:
• Nyx Orange Blush (Crimson)
• Quo Baked Bronzer ( Beach Babe)
Lips:
• Mac Lip Liner – Bespoke
• Mary Kay Lipsticks (Whipped Berry and Rich Fig)
• Milani Lip Gloss – Nude Touch
Brushes:
• Mary Kay powder brush
• Real Techniques pointed foundation and powder brush
• Coastal Scents fan and blush brush
• Quo fluffy brush

Thanks for Reading!
If you have any reviews, questions and suggestions, leave a comment!

Felicita Ovadje
ProMUA
Email: info@felicheetaartistry.com
@felicheetaartistry (Instagram and facebook)
www.felicheetaartistry.com