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The Mathematics of the brows (part2)

I love talking about Eyebrows as you must have noticed in the first part of this article. If you didn’t read it, stop HERE and do so as that is the basis of the brow game.

I believe it is my favorite topic when it comes to any beauty or makeup related topic. We all know that an individual’s Brow frames the eye but the most important thing we need to understand is that the brow also creates different facial expressions when tweaked. It also has the ability to add or remove age from an individual.

Fact: Do you know that very thin brows adds on age to an individual and the same goes for very thick brows?

Different people Different Features: Because we have different face shapes we cannot be given the same brow shape that is used on Mary, Kate and Ashley. I have below a chart that shows the different face shapes and the recommended brow shapes. It is important to note that this chart is generic and we need to alter the brows according to the individual’s unique facial features. It is also important to consider the fact that half of your body differs from the other half.

• Did you know that one side of your face differs from the other or is higher than the other. Most of the time it is the side you sleep on? This is because the pressure placed on the skin decreases circulation for hours while we sleep.
• Did you know that the side you sleep on is mostly your weak side?
• Did you know that the eyebrow most people raise is the brow that is normally lower when relaxed?Face shapes

Getting the Right Brow color

Finding the right color for your brows can very tasking for some individuals. I believe we are way past the age of people using black and red pencils to draw their eyebrows. It is always advisable to go with a brow shade that is one or two shades lighter than the hair on your head. This would not apply to individuals who are blonde or grey. In such situations, it is advisable to go a couple shades darker.

Stages of Creating Flawless Brows

My models face falls into the heart shaped category thereby we are looking at creating a low arched brow with some volume. It is important to notice that both brows are not on the same level so we have to draw them in a way that will create that illusion. As I said, always remember that one side of your face is smaller or lower than the other side.



Stage 1

Brush the brow hair following the brow pattern. Tip: use a brow gel to lay the hair flat.

Stage 2

Measure the brows and figure out the shape you want to draw. Draw a line at the point you want to start the brows. Tip: When drawing the brows always look down and if you’re drawing the brow on another individual, do not allow them close their eyes because the lack of visual stimuli makes some individuals more sensitive to touch and hence the forehead muscles may become tense.

Stage 3

At this point we create a frame for the brows.

Stage 4

The next step is to use a brow color or eye shadow to fill in the brows using the brushstroke technique. It is important to refer to the section above (Choosing the right shade of brow color). I also use a concealer that is two or three shades lighter than the clients color to clean around the brows. If you notice I did not apply concealer around the midsection of the forehead. I do that so the brow looks natural.

Stage 5

At this stage, we should go over the concealer with a foundation and blend out the any harsh lines.



Consult a professional

I know I have said this before, but it is very important to get professional advice. This is because it is important that we learn about the color that works for your brows and also how to make your brows look a little bit similar thereby making the difference is very minute.




Pic1: Isabel’s Beauty Blog
All other pictures are the properties of the writer.

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